Jon and Bec do Asia

Sunday, December 24, 2006

Merry Christmas


We just want to say a big MERRY CHRISTMAS to everyone back at home. We miss you all lots and love you loads. Thanks to everyone who has posted messages, it's nice to read them when we get the chance.
We've got lots more photos to upload now, we're just waiting until we find a computer without a virus to upload them!

On Christmas Day we plan to have an organic breakfast with fruit to start the day, an hour and a half's massage on the beach at 12pm, and then we have a Christmas dinner with fireworks and drinks later on in the evening. It should be really nice but of course will be a bit strange being away from everyone we love!

We hope everyone has a great time, be it eating, drinking, clubbing or spending it with family. Have a great time!!

Jon and Bec xxx

Saturday, December 16, 2006

Beautiful Goa

We left Udaipur in Rajasthan on 5th Dec and got the train to Ahmedabad, in Gujurat. My friend and ex-colleague Darsh is originally from Ahmedabad and he kindly offered us a night's stay at his parent's house there, as we'd be stopping there for one night to catch a connecting train to Mumbai. After being ripped off by a rickshaw driver (as usual) we finally managed to locate Darsh's parents, who saved us from being hounded by taxi drivers trying to get our business! (Not matter how many times you tell them "No, I dont need a taxi" they will never accept it, and consistently hound you until you walk away in anger!
We spent a great night in Ahmedabad - Darsh's house is like a hotel, absolutely enormous! It was by far better than any place we're used to haha! We ate with his family and then his parents took us for a zoom round the town on their scooters, which was hilarious. It was really nice to spend a day in a proper Indian household and not in a hotel for once.

From Ahmedabad we caught a train to Mumbai. Jon wasn't too keen about going to Mumbai as we'd had enough of big towns, but I wanted to go for at least a couple of days as I'd heard good things about it.
Well, we arrived after a 10hr train journey, tired and hungry and without a hotel room. I checked in our Lonely Planet for cheap rooms and we headed for a hotel. What we found out is that a room that costs you 600INR in Rajasthan, and a room for the same amount in Mumbai will be TOTALLY different! In our budget the only places we could get were serious dumps. In the end we reluctantly chose a sweatbox of a room with no windows, let alone air con, and no toilet. We had been walking around for so long we just wanted to get rid of our bags. It wans't the best start to Mumbai!
We headed out and thankfully Mumbai turned out to be just what we needed. After eating we walked along the main street... Pepe, Gucci, Levis, Nike etc.. all shops we love.. and it was very tempting not to buy anything there because the stuff was SOOOO cheap! A pair of Pepe jeans were about 8pounds, but we had no room in our backpacks for anything other than necessities :o(
We also found a great little bar playing cheesey rock classics - just what we needed after almost a month of no alcohol and no music! We had a few drinks in there and began to unwind.
Once we got back to our hole (I wont even call it a hotel room) we realised with horror that we werent the only ones staying there. A family of cockroaches were crawling over our bags, and on the floor. YUK! We toyed with the idea of leaving there and then but it was 11.30pm and we didnt fancy our chances on the dark streets so we stayed for one horrible sweaty night in that room (after going on a bug-killing spree) then checked into a better establishment the morning after!!
The next day we visited Elephanta Island, which is about an hour's boat ride from Mumbai harbour. This island hosts several ancient caves, which have sculptures of Hindi Gods in them from centuries ago. It was very interesting seeing the caves, and we ate a nice lunch overlooking the beautiful tropical island before getting a boat back.

After two days in Mumbai we decided to leave and head for the light at the end of our tunnel - Goa! We had another mammoth 12 hour train journey (delayed as usual) before we reached our destination. Goa has lived up to all it's expectations and we are having a brilliant time. We're staying in a tourist complex of little cottages in the Benaulim Beach area. It's on a peaceful road and every day we wake up to a herd of buffalo wading through a pond that's outside our hotel.
All the restaurants here serve fresh fish. Infact we have watched as the fishermen bring in their catch from the beach, the restaurant owner then comes up with a tray of wriggling fish and you choose the one you want! I wasn't a big fish fan before but eating it fresh like this is amazing - we haven't had a bad meal yet!
So apart from lying on a beach all day ;o) we have also hired out a moped and explored a bit of the area. I have ridden one before but Jon hasn't. However he didnt want to dent his manly pride by riding on the back of one with me driving so I had to risk life and limb and get on with Jon in the driving seat! After a few wobbly starts we finally set off. We had a great time, save for one scary moment when we ran out of petrol and were chased up a road by two scary dogs with me screaming at Jon "START IT!! HURRY UP START IT!!!" It could only happy to us.
Thankfully the Gods were kind to me that day and I made it through despite Jon's dodgy driving skills ;o)
Today we had the best day... we met up again with a Swedish couple who we first met in Kashmir (they made it out alive too!). We went up to Dudshagar Waterfalls, about an hour and a half away from Benaulim. It's the second highest waterfall in India and it was beautiful. The place is out in the middle of a nature reserve and you can only get there by jeep. The drive takes you through rivers and up a rocly terrain, but once you get there you can see snakes, monkeys, butterflies etc. We swam in the pool at the bottom (which was absolutely freezing!!) and took some great photos.

So this is our last night in Benaulim. Tomorrow we are getting a train to Hampi (recommended by James amongst others) so hopefully that should be good also. We have been here for eight days now and feel like a change from the beach. After that we are heading to North Goa for Christmas. Really looking forward to this as I've heard the nightlife up there is pretty good, and me and Jon have been living like Saints for the past month so we need to let our hair down!

Monday, December 04, 2006

Photos...

Our first batch of photos are now online! You can view them all here:

http://public.fotki.com/Beckiboo/india16nov4dec2006

Enjoy...

A Rumble in Rajasthan


Jon and I have been on our travels for three weeks now! Can’t believe how time has flown, and we seem to have done so much already. We thankfully managed to escape the dreaded “Delhi Belly” that everyone had warned us about, yet we seem to have both picked up something similarly nasty since we’ve arrived in Rajasthan. It’s not stopping us from going out, but we do seem to be losing weight at a rapid pace ;o)
The past two weeks have been spent touring Rajasthan, which is a state to the Western side of India. Rajasthan is known as one of the most beautiful and diverse states in India, and I’d have to agree with that. We’ve had a fantastic time and seen some great places. Here’s a quick rundown:

Jaipur

The first main town you hit (and the largest) in Rajasthan is Jaipur. It’s a town which has got both good and bad about it. There is an old and a new part, the old is based around a fort, within the fort walls are small narrow streets with loads of street venders plying their wares. The other part of Jaipur is the new “up and coming” part of town, with coffee shops, Pizza Hut, the odd bar (men only) and a busy main road that runs right through the middle of it.
We decided to stay here for three days to recharge our batteries. We headed straight for Pizza Hut upon arrival, for a bit of “proper” food ;o) After the mayhem of Delhi and Agra, it was nice just to check in a hotel, without a plan, and just spend our time relaxing, eating and sleeping!
We also visited the Raj Mandir cinema, which is the biggest in Rajasthan, and watched a Bollywood film called “Vivah” which is a love story based on two young people getting engaged and then married. Of course it was all in Hindi so at times it was hard to follow, but you kind of get the jist of it and it was a good film.

Jodhpur

We hadn’t planned on spending long in Jodhpur as from the guide book it seemed like there was just another fort and not much else to do there, so we only allowed two days there. We arrived by train late at night, and, not knowing where our hotel was, we jumped in a rickshaw and headed off. After about a 15min drive we pulled up at the hotel and paid the guy about 50rupees. It was only the morning after when we ventured out of our hotel did we realize that we were actually staying literally opposite the train station… the cheeky beggar had driven us around the block a few times just to make a bit of extra cash… typical!!!
We did go and see the fort, as it is supposed to be one of the best in India, and it was good. You can buy a little audio guide, which you listen to through a pair of headphones (as if we don’t look enough like tourists!!) which tells you some interesting facts about the fort. We also got some great pictures of Jodhpur (known as the Blue City) as it’s right up high on a hill.
The next day we went out on a village safari. Basically this means we were taken out in a jeep, into the sticks of Rajasthan, to see how the villagers live. We saw several villages with several different trades, including pottery, rug weaving, block printing, and carpet making. It was great to see how the villagers lived, we even had lunch in a traditional Rajput village house. It consisted of Dhal (lentils), chapatti and some twig like things. I was so hungry I ate the lot, but at the time I couldn’t help but think how nice a big pie and chips would be :o)
The best thing about this day was meeting all the village children. At first they are so shy and coy around you, peering round corners and waving. Yet when the jeep pulls away, they sprint as fast as they can trying to keep up, shouting BYE!!! …smiling and waving. Even though they have a meagre amount to live on out there, we didn’t see one unhappy face the whole time.




Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer is called the “golden city” of Rajasthan and it’s clear why. Every building is made from golden sandstone, and it gives the city a real “Lawrence of Arabia” type feel. Like most of the other cities in Rajasthan, Jaisalmer is built around a fort, with an old and a new town. We stayed inside the fort walls, in a great little guest house which had a terrace upstairs overlooking the city. Great for having a cup of Chai tea and watching the sun set over the desert… magical!
The first day we spent wandering the streets within the old fort. It was kind of like walking around Camden Market, but just a bit bigger. There is every kind of Rajasthani ware to buy here… clothes, wool, silk, jewelry, precious stones etc. The shopkeepers are still quite persistant like in all the other places we’ve been, but it’s such a touristy place they aren’t quite as pushy, and normally after a “no thanks” they leave you alone. Having said that it’s a great place to pick up some bargains, we both bought a beautiful scarf each for about 2GBP!!
The second day was the best day so far!!! We went out into the Thar desert (about an hour away by jeep) where we embarked on a two hour camel ride over the sand dunes. This was AMAZING! I’ve never ridden a camel before, let alone been in a desert, so this was a great experience for me. Riding over sand dunes on a camel that farts every 2mins was quite hilarious!
After the camel ride our tour guide cooked us another traditional meal of curry, rice and chapatti. We ate this as the sun was going down, then sat around a camp fire under the beautiful moon and watched the stars. You know you have those moments when you know this is one time in your life that you will never have again, and you’re just humbled by the beauty of something… well this was it for me.
We had a bit of a hard time trusting tour guides after our bad experience, but this tour was one I would definitely recommend to anyone.

Udaipur

We arrived in Udaipur after a marathon 15hr train then bus session. This was the first bus ride we’d been on and OH MY GOD they seriously don’t value their lives out here. Our driver was cutting people up, overtaking on high mountain roads, speeding… my nerves were shot by the end of it but thankfully we arrived here ok!
Udaipur is a beautiful city based around a huge lake. It’s by far the most beautiful place we’ve seen so far. Everything here is so serene and tranquil. You can eat your breakfast overlooking the lake, surrounded by mountains. It could be like a small Italian lake village rather than a place in India!
There’s not a huge amount to do here apart from relax, which is fine for us. We have four nights here in a brilliant guesthouse geared towards travellers. Our room overlooks the lake, so we have a great view in the mornings.
We’ve spent our time here walking round, watching sunsets and drinking lots of tea! There’s loads other travellers staying here so we have been making friends and getting lots of tips, as it seems everyone else has traveled India about 3084671 times and we’re definitely the newbies!
So far having a great time travelling, the journeys are sometimes hard and stressful but you know at the end of each one there’s another amazing place to see :o)